Archive for October, 2008

Cafe de la Poste – Beijing, China

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008

58 Yonghegong Dajie, Yonghegong

Tel. 6402-7047

Opening Hours: Lunch:11am-1:30pm, Dinner:6pm-11:30pm

Prices: Moderate

Down a restored narrow street or hutong, this restaurant has large windows that look onto the bicycle traffic on the lane outside and displays its menu on a chalkboard. It has candlelit tables and a large bar featuring a well-selected list of wines and a large selection of various brands of pastis. The chef buys and cuts all the meat himself. The place can be smoky and prices are high for the quality. The customers are not the only ones to smoke in the restaurant as the French owners smoke too, as might be expected and not really a big surprise! It is probably worth spending a little more and dining at Brasserie Flo.

Troisgros Restaurant – Roanne, France

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008

Hôtel Restaurant Troisgros
Place Jean Troisgros 42300 Roanne
Tel. (33) 04 77 71 66 97
Fax. 04 77 70 39 77
Website: www.troisgros.fr
Opening Hours: Lunch: Noon – 2:00pm; Dinner: 6pm-10pm
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Very Expensive
Three Michelin Stars

Many years ago we were driving from Paris to St. Tropez on a gastronomic tour and made it a point to stop at the three-star Michelin restaurant Toisgros in Roanne for dinner. Our friend the author, Henry Miller decided to stay in Paris as he was visiting French actress, Jeanne Moreau whom he had not seen in a awhile, and agreed that his wife singer, Hoki Tokuda should travel with my wife and I to St. Tropez.
When we pulled into the courtyard of the restaurant Troisgros the entire kitchen crew came out to greet us, it may have been the California license plate on the Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II or perhaps the unusual sight, in this part of the world, of an Asian and a blond girl stepping out of the car, or possibly both. I had the unusual request, or at least they thought it was, to stay in what were at that time modest rooms above the restaurant. Shortly after our visit they started renovation and built a serious boutique hotel where I stayed in splendid accommodations a few years later. They tried to persuade us not to stay there and proclaimed it was not comfortable enough, although after much insistence about wanting to be close to the cooking they agreed.
That evening we enjoyed among other courses the eggs with caviar, pâté de grives, escalope of salmon with sorrel sauce (it was first created here) and Charolais beef with marrow and sauce Fleurie with potatoes gratin “Forezienne”, cheese trolley and Le Grand Dessert (a combination of ice creams, sorbets, stewed & fresh fruit and fruit sauces along with other delight that you could combine as you liked) all of these dishes are still available with the exception of the pâté de grives, which is most likely due to the scarcity of the thrush or because it is perceived as environmentally incorrect.
After dinner we took a walk around what was at that time the unattractive downtown area near the train station to help digest the dinner. We returned later only to be invited by the Toisgros brothers, Jean and Pierre and their father Jean-Baptiste, who created an uproar in culinary circles when he first paired fish with red wine, to join them for some local charcutrie, cheese and wine. As we were finishing our “second repast” they all suggested that we stop in the next day to visit their good friend, Paul Bocuse for lunch at the “Auberge de Collonges” on the Saône river on the outskirts of Lyon. Jean called him and booked the table for lunch the following day and requested the whole fish in pastry as one of the dishes to be served. (post on Auberge de Collonges to follow soon).

Today, the Maison Troisgros restaurant/hotel and Le Central, the bistro and shop next door, are ably run by Marie-Pierre and Michel Troisgros (Pierre’s son). Michel is the chef who uses a touch of the exotic but never loses touch with the original classic base and his wife Marie-Pierre runs the front of house and supervises designs for the multi-operations.

Le Cafe Igosso – Beijing, China

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008

Dongsanhuan Nanlu, CBD/Guomao 800m south of Guomao Qiao

Tel.8771-7013

Email: 2gosso@ht.rol.cn.net

Opening Hours: Open 11:30am-1am

Credit Cards: Accepted

Prices: Moderate-Expensive

Pleas do not let the outward appearance of the building put you off. Climb the stairs and order an aperitif in the second floor bar, with its deep-hued red walls off-set by dark wooden paneling, while listening to the strains of light jazz. It has an extraordinary choice of spirits and is certainly one of the most comfortable of the up-scale bars in the city. The chef and owner are Japanese and the kitchen turns out some of the best Italian dishes in the capital. You may choose from the à la carte menu or from the hand written special menu. Whatever you finally choose, you will not be disappointed.

Le Pré Lenôtre Restaurant – Beijing, China

Monday, October 13th, 2008

Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Jianguomen
Next to Wanda International Cineplex
Tel. +86 10 8599 6666 x6528
Website: www.sofitel.com/asia
Opening Hours: Lunch: Noon-2:30pm; Dinner: 6pm-11pm
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Very Expensive
In collaboration between Sofitel Wanda Beijing and the legendary French Master Bakers & House of Gastronomy, Lenôtre; Le Pré Lenôtre brings a touch of Parisian style to the Beijing dining scene. You will find innovative French cuisine in well-appointed surroundings. Lenôtre Chef de Cuisine Frederic Meynard is at the helm and the restaurant’s commitment to high-quality ingredients, excellent service, unparalleled food preparation, and a comprehensive all-French wine list, Le Pré Lenôtre is certain to offer the finest French cuisine in the city.


Au Bon Pain – Bangkok

Saturday, October 11th, 2008

Something caught my attention the other day when I was in the local Au Bon Pain Café in Bangkok!

Learn More>

This bakery and Café chain originated in America and was known to be on the cutting edge since its beginnings. The company bought a few Cruvinet Wine Preserving Machines in the early eighties for new stores they opened in Houston and Dallas. Now they are a leading the pack once again by banning trans fats in their products. In 2005 a few key employees bought 75% of Au Bon Pain and have now expanded the company to over 250 outlets worldwide. The chocolate croissant is particularly good as well as many other sandwiches and bakery goods.

Special Note: I took this photo for the header today and while I was doing so, an employee rushed out to tell me I could not take any photos. It seems that businesses are ultra-sensitive about photos being taken of their premises these days, especially in America, but I hardly gave it a thought in Bangkok. This is why I am being forced to depend on the Internet for photos as it is becoming increasingly difficult to take shots, especially inside a restaurant. I was taking this particular picture from the public sidewalk outside their property. The odd thing is, that this piece as well as most others I write, are promoting these businesses and I am being treated worse than a dog for my trouble.

The Long Table – Bangkok

Friday, October 10th, 2008

Long Table Restaurant & Bar
25th Floor
48 Column Bldg.
Sukhumvit Soi 16 (Sammita)
Tel. 02 302 2557-9
Website: www.longtablebankok.com
Opening Hours: Daily 11am-2am
Parking Available at parking tower
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Expensive

The Bed Supper Club Group have poured a lot of money into construction and decoration of this enormous space occupying the greater part of the 25th floor in the Column Building. The main attraction is the long communal table, which seats up to 70 persons. A long slick bar with bright red under-lighting extends through a floor to ceiling plate glass window out into the most tranquil part of the place; the outside terrace where you can hear a waterfall from the adjacent swimming pool and look onto a sparkling view of the city.
The drinks and especially wines-by-the-glass come highly priced, something that is ultimately drinkable is 500 baht per glass other less interesting selections go for 300 baht a glass. The Thai-influenced cooking is not the main draw and the furniture and barstools are designed more for looks than comfort although, in spite of this the place seems to be a big hit with the mixed crowd.

Cannes 2008/2009 – Travelers on a Budget, Reasonably Priced Restaurants

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

Côté Jardin – Menu at 23, Carte 29/37
12 Avenue Saint Louis
Tel. 04 93 38 60 28
email: www.cotejardin.com@wanadoo.fr
Opening Hours: Closed 27 October-5 Nov, Sunday and Monday
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Inexpensive-Moderate

This quaint restaurant is located in a residential area and has a friendly staff that are usually quite attentive. Off the main dining room there is a veranda and a small garden surrounded by flowers and green shrubs. A blackboard menu and a four-course set menu at 23€ are reasonably priced.

La Mere Besson – Menu €29/34, Carte €31/48
13 Rue Freres-Pradignac
Tel. 04 93 39 59 24
email: www.lamerebesson@wanadoo.fr
Opening Hours: Dinner Only; Closed Sunday
Credit Cads: All Major
Prices: Moderate

La Mere Besson has become a legend; she first began her restaurant in the 1930’s and certain dishes from her original Provençal menu are in use today by this restaurant named in her honor. It might be a Le Grand Aioli that consists of a plate of fish, vegetables, and aioli (a garlicky sauce) or a farcis niçois. A set menu from 29€-34€  Reservations advisable.

Caveau 30 – Menu €17, Carte €34/64
45 rue Félix-Faure, Cannes
Tel. 04-93-39-06-33
email: lecaveau30@wanadoo.fr
Opening Hours: Brasserie open throughout the day
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Inexpensive-Moderate

Caveau 30 is a brasserie split between two large dining rooms specializing in fresh seafood. Start off with a seafood platter and follow with one of the classic dishes on offer either bouillabaisse, pot-au-feu of seafood or shellfish paella. The 1930s décor along with an accompanying terrace and a set menu at 17€ makes this an interesting dining experience.

Le Mesclun

Tuesday, October 7th, 2008

Le Mesclun
16 Rue Saint Antoine
Cannes, France
Tel. 04 03 99 45 19
Fax.04 93 49 29 11
Opening Hours: Dinner Only (Closed 29 June-9 July, 1 February-2 March and Sunday)
Credit cards: All Major
Prices: Moderate

A warm, inviting restaurant with subdued lighting serving Provençal cuisine by a pleasant staff and located in the old village “Le Suquet”. The set menu at €39 has many excellent choices and I would vigoriously recommend embarking on that course.

Le Felix Restaurant – Cannes, France

Monday, October 6th, 2008

Restaurant Le Felix
63 Boulevard Croisette, Cannes, 06400, France.
Tel. +33 (4) 93940061
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Expensive

Felix is centrally located directly on ‘La Croisette’ and is magically positioned next to the Carlton, with a large terrasse in front; in case you may not be aware, this is the “A” section. If you are ushered inside and cannot be seated on the “terrasse”, then just do not bother, as you will be missing all the action and the entire effort is pointless. There is no doubt, that the scene here is: to see and be seen. Even a much publicized appearance earlier this year (2008) by Madonna and Guy Ritchie and numerous entrances of other Hollywood “celebs”, especially during the Cannes Film Festival, the fact is pure and simple—Felix has been there for donkey’s years and is becoming quite tiresome—mainly because it draws crowds that are too large in peak season, and due to this the feeling of exclusivity is fast disappearing.

Le Château de la Chèvre d’Or Hotel & Restaurants

Sunday, October 5th, 2008

Le Château de la Chèvre d’Or
Moyenne Corniche, Rue du Barri
06360 Eze Village – Cote d´Azur – France
Tel. +33 (0)492 106 666
Fax : +33 (0)493 410 672
email : reservation@chevredor.com
Website: www.chevredor.com
High above the sea in the mountains between Nice and Monaco in the picturesque village of Eze is the impeccable hotel with a two-starred Michelin restaurant Château de la Chêvre d’Or. It is a 14th century castle that has been transformed into a 4-star hotel. A terrace provides magnificent views of the sea, a lovely swimming pool as well as an intricate, African-styled garden. The present owner bought it in the eighties and added more rooms, which meant they had to buy houses in the ancient village and convert them. I have always made it a point when in the south of France to squeeze in a visit to the village of Eze if only to have lunch.