Archive for December, 2008

Fontainebleau Resort $1 Billion Makeover – Miami Beach

Thursday, December 11th, 2008

Only the other day I commented to a friend of mine in Los Angeles, “What has become of the Fontainebleau Hotel in Miami Beach?” My timing was right on, when I started to investigate, I found that a Gala Grand Opening had just transpired after completion of a 1 billion dollar renovation. Just as starters, there are seven different restaurants to choose from: Gotham Steak – Steakhouse; Hakkasan-Chinese Cantonese restaurant (Alan Yau’s London based, Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant); Scarpetta – Italian; La Cote, – French, Mediterranean; Vida – Pan-American; Solo – Cafe & Patisserie; Fresh – Snacks & Gelato. Sean O’Connell is the Executive Chef of Fontainebleau Resorts.

I will be updating as I become privy to new information. K.M.

Chinese Chef Receives 3 Michelin Stars – Hong Kong

Monday, December 8th, 2008

Chef Chan Yan-Tak of the Cantonese restaurant Lung King Heen (View of the Dragon) located in the Four Seasons Hotel, Hong Kong has just received three Michelin stars. This is the first time a three-star rating has been awarded to a Chinese chef.
Michelin inspectors carefully monitored Chan’s career. They inspected the restaurant 12 times before giving it three-star approval. “His Dim Sum were as light as clouds,” they said.

Food Critic Gael Green Out! After 40 Yrs. at New York Magazine – New York

Monday, December 8th, 2008

I think the way in which she was ousted was an appalling display on the part of New York Magazine, especially after 40 years! Ms Greene will still be reporting via her blog on things culinary in New York City http://www.insatiable-critic.com/ One good note: she can now devote more time to her charity Citymeals-on-Wheels, which she founded 27 years ago. It supplies food to the elderly who are unable to find means to do so otherwise.

Elaine’s – New York

Sunday, December 7th, 2008

Elaine’s Restaurant
1703 Second Ave., New York, NY 10128 near 88th St.
Tel.+1 212-534-8103
Opening Hours: Mon-Sat, 6pm-2am; Sun, 5pm-1am
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Moderate-Expensive

The food at Elaine’s has always been barely passable, however that is not the point of the excursion to eighty-eighth Street, players from stage and screen, writers, power-brokers, intellectual types hang there. Bobby Short took my girl friend and I around the corner to smoke a joint—I am a drinker not a smoker but I took a drag anyway! This is a fun place where a lot of people mingle and the buzz is high. I used to drop by whenever I was in the city just for the hell of it.
In the low-lighting of the bar people look good, even at elbow to elbow distance, and the dining rooms are lively especially later in the evening. Elaine Kaufman, the owner, can be snarly, though she is not afraid to pick up a glass and make a drink if necessary, and will usually greet customers if she is not too engaged in conversation with other guests. You can become drunk, get unruly—no one will notice—it’s that type of place.
Elaine’s is an American-Italian joint, but there is only one of them like this in NYC; or anywhere else in the world for that matter.

Conga Room – Los Angeles

Saturday, December 6th, 2008

The New Conga Room
Neighborhood: Downtown L.A.
800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, Ca 90015
Tel. 213-749-0445
http://www.congaroom.com/

Bar, Club Type: Rock Club, Latin Club, DJ, Dance Club, Dinner and Dancing

Brad Gluckstein who describes himself as an “inherently Jewish” guy “with a corazón Latino” has opened the new Conga Room where long-time patrons might be astonished by the expanded musical bill-of-fare. The offerings naturally will include voluminous amounts of salsa and merengue, the club’s signature sound. But there also will be a tapas bar’s worth of World Beat, tropical, rock en Español, jazz, mariachi, Brazilian and alternative Latin sounds, all under the guidance of the Conga Room’s newly appointed musical director Oscar Hernandez, leader of the Spanish Harlem Orchestra and collaborator with the likes of Paul Simon and Ruben Blades.

Hernandez will direct the club’s house band, hand-picked, crack musicians who Hernandez vows will be not only danceable but as listenable as any concert-hall ensemble. “My vision is to basically create the perception that this is an elite team, this is an elite ensemble of musicians.”

Hernandez, who moved to Los Angeles from New York two years ago, said he’s grateful to have the chance to bring to Los Angeles audiences “some hard-core, real-deal salsa.” One key challenge for the club’s owners, he believes, will be to create a congenial space that’s equally accommodating to the hoi polloi burning up the dance floor and the velvet-rope crowd stashed away in Barcelona chairs sipping cocktails in the VIP lounge.

Chef Alex García, a pioneer of Nueva Latina cuisine, promises to replicate the classics — arroz con pollo, churrasco grilled meat, green plantain fritters — while also inventing new dishes infused with culinary tips he absorbed from his Cuban grandmother. “We’re trying to do a menu where everybody’s going to feel included,” he said. “It’s really a nostalgia corner for every Latin American person around.”

From its perch on a noisy, light-swept public plaza where on any given night there could be thousands of Lakers, Clippers or Kings fans plus mobs of concert-goers and tourists milling around, the Conga Room also must strive to maintain an atmosphere that’s both intimately human-scale and cosmopolitan. “It’s a deliberate balance to really keep it elegant and sophisticated in a setting that would want you to be more like a sports bar,” Gluckstein said.

This sounds to me to be a hard bill to fill, if they can squeeze elegance and sophistication from a mainly sports fans audience, then they have amazing magical powers. K.M.

Le Normandie Grill, Oriental Hotel – Bangkok

Friday, December 5th, 2008

48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
Tel. +66 (2) 659 9000
Website: www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/
Opening Hours: Lunch: Noon-2:30 p.m.; Dinner 6p.m.-10:30 p.m.
Credit Cards: all Major
Prices: Expensive-Very Expensive

After some time in the culinary doldrums, The Normandie Grill was dead-on at a recent lunch from beginning to finish, and that accomplished in spite of the closure of both of the city’s airports by protestors for more than a week. The only thing they could not deliver was a quince tart, although dozens of other choices were provided. I might add that the hotel was reporting the lowest occupancy in their history thanks to the political squabbling, which escalated to the point of practically shutting down the entire country.

We started with escargots and a puree of white bean soup moving right along to saute of St. Pierre, the fish being extremely delicate and enhanced by a light sauce and dollops of white foam and my companion had an incredibly delicious crayfish dish. The views of the river are spectacular from the narrow dining room and I am happy to report that the service, the cuisine including the desserts were all at the Michelin star level.

Ristorante Massa – Tokyo

Friday, December 5th, 2008

Pictured above: our daughter, Akiko Grace Marshal on the shoulder of Chef Masahiko Kobe at Ristorante Massa, Tokyo

1-23-22 Ebisu
Shibuya-ku
Tokyo, Japan
Tel. (81) 03-5793-3175
Italian
Nearest Station: Ebisu
Website: http://www.massa-ebisu.com (Japanese)
Opening Hours: 11:30am to 3:00pm (last order 1:30) and 6:00pm to 11:00pm (last order 9:30), closed Wednesdays and the first Tuesday of each month
Credit Cards: Yes
Prices: Moderate-Expensive

Italian Iron Chef Masahiko Kobe,  also known as “The Italian Iron Chef”, opened his restaurant Massa in the year 2000 and due to his celebrity status it was an instant success. The menu at Massa changes daily and lunch is very popular, due to the small size of the restaurant booking is advisable. He was known as the “Prince of Pasta” when he was on TV and it is not a shock that his menu specializes in pasta.

He is one of Japan’s top chefs and by the age of 27 he had risen to be one of the top chefs at three-star Michelin Enoteca Pinchiorri, in Florence, Italy before being taken by the producer of “Iron Chef”.

The wine list is 100 percent Italian and has a good selection from most regions of the country.
There are two choices for dinner: the 6,000 course, and the 8,000 course. Both are among Tokyo’s greatest culinary bargains. Booking is essential: the ten tables are always full.

We were given an introduction to him by our friend, Chef Angelo Rottoli, Beccofino Restaurant, Bangkok, who was his roommate and they also worked together at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence.

Escoffier Dinner at Philippe Restaurant, 1 December 2008 – Bangkok

Thursday, December 4th, 2008

Pictured above on the right: Philippe Peretti owner of Philippe Restaurant, Bangkok, on the left: Herve Frerard, of Le Beaulieu Restaurant

Escoffier Dinner
1 December 2008

It turned out to be an excellent dinner with a great pairing of French cuisine by Philippe Restaurant presented brilliantly, by Chef and Owner Philippe Peretti and wines compliments of Gfour Co. Ltd.

Thanks goes to Peter Brongers, President of Escoffier Thailand Chapter, for all his effort in putting this gala dinner together.

The Menu including Wines and Grappa
Aperitif
Amuse Bouche
Prosecco Cuvee Torri  di Credazzo Follador

Langoustine Salad with Truffle Cappuccino
Pinot Grigio Liveo Felluga 2007

Roasted Cobia Kingfish Filet with Chorizo Risotto and Red bell Pepper Sauce

Trou Normand

Wild Boar Stew with Chestnuts
Boccadigabbia Pix Merlot 2001

Brie de Meaux Cheese with Truffles

Nougat Glacé

Coffee / Tea
Grappa La Centenara

Thanks to Gfour Co. Ltd. for the Wine Selection

Rivera, New Concept in Downtown L.A. by Chef John Sedlar – Los Angeles

Thursday, December 4th, 2008

I made the trek quite regularly to Manhattan Beach to a little store front in a large strip mall where a Southwestern restaurant called St. Estephe was located. The Chef/partner John Sedlar was turning out some very upscale cuisine and quite unlike anything in the area; it almost seemed out-of-place at the time. I visited him less often at the oddly named Abiquiu (its namesake is a small town in New Mexico) in Santa Monica.
In December he is about to open Rivera across the street from L.A. Live with partners Bill Chait, founder of Louise’s Trattoria chain, and designer Eddie Soto a former Disney imaging technician. Sedlar has developed a new twist on Latin Cuisine with touches of gastronomic molecular chemistry à la Ferran Adrià. There will also be the Samba Lounge with a bar menu featuring Ceviche and other raw items and the Playa Bar.
Small plates will range from $8 to $16, and full-plate entrées will run from $18 to $29. It could be that the check average could be $35 to $45 per person.

According to Bill Chait, “The price point is designed in a way so that people can eat casually and spend only $30 for dinner.

It will be interesting to see how this restaurant and Celestino Drago’s “Drago Centro”, both establishments coming from seasoned operators, go down in downtown Los Angeles. Most probably, they will do well.

Bistro de Leon – St. Augustine, Florida

Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008

Jean-Stephane Poinard is a fifth generation Lyonnaise chef who is also a member of the elite Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises. Along with his wife, Valerie they are striving to make the Bistro de Leon, their first outlet in the United States and their dream for years, to ultimately become a great success. Both of them are passionate about cuisine and the integral part it plays in daily life.  The newly opened Bistro de Leon is from a chef who’s mentor is Paul Bocuse, and this is his sixth restaurant and is anchored in “la cuisine des nos meres” or “mother’s home cooking”. It is both classic and somewhat contemporary, relying on Poinard’s ingenuity and the quality of the freshest of locally grown ingredients.

They offer a daily three-course prix fixe menu for $22. The Bistro is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bread is baked fresh daily on the premises and main entrees start at $15.95.