Restaurant-Dining Critiques

Tel. 03-3351-3810, Fax 03-3225-1324
1-18 Wakaba, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Very Expensive

Mikuni can be difficult to find without good directions, as it is hidden on a small residential street not far from the palatial State Guest House. Look for the sign Hotel Mikuni, incidentally it is not a hotel, it has however, been chosen as a Relais et Château Restaurant and with no wonder as it is one of the best tables in Japan.
A large window in the dining room looks onto trees huddled close to the glass in the extreme foreground. On each table, an elegant, curved translucent plastic vase is placed with a narrow trough only large enough to put about a dozen small stems. In one corner is a huge arrangement made out of branches and decorated with autumn fruits and ivy with variegated leaves. Gold service plates flecked with lavender and blue patterns are impressive; the restaurant’s flatware is of the best quality from Paris and the glasses are engraved with a handsome letter M logo. The dining room has some smart looking modern paintings with a couple of large works taking up most of the space on two walls although, the real art is on the plates.

For lunch the set menu is priced reasonably and includes 6 courses, coffee, and petit fours. The selection on the day I dined there started with an “amuse bouche” a custard tart and served with a selection of outstanding bread. Wild mushroom soup “Cappuccino Style” was served in a large coffee cup with foaming milk on top of coffee-colored soup. Poached Bass (Itoyori) with fried Makomotake served with a watercress coulis and sweetened vinegar.The next course was Roasted Duck Breton with a Fricassé of Pumpkin (Kabocha) and eggplant with Sauce Poivre Vert. Next Fromage Blanc “Akane-Ringo” the fromage blanc was studded with pieces of apples and ginger and sitting in a pool of fresh, liquefied, apple jelly.

The dessert course “Mikan” caramelized and perfumed with “yuzu” with cocoa ice cream and lemon decorated with a wing made out of bamboo leaf and mint wrapped in a small bundle in the center. After the Chariot of Pastries was rolled up to the table included among the many choices was a fresh berry tart from Hokkaido and Floating Island. Coffee with petit fours followed. For an extra charge, you can sneak in a cheese course preceding the dessert courses.
The house white wine was at the time a Grave Blanc and the red was a St Julien from Bordeaux.
This restaurant is in the same category as the finest three Michelin-starred restaurants in France and the prices reflect this.