Above: Hambleton Hall, Oakham, Leicestershire
I thought it only fitting, as this is the first Christmas for this weblog, to post this article by the late David Langlands, a good friend and brilliant writer. It originally appeared in the December issue of our publication, “The Good Life” a Dining & Travel Newsletter in 1981. It has been left intact, wherever possible, and only amended and edited to bring it up-to-date and enhanced with a few photos:
At Christmas play and make good cheer
For Christmas comes but once a year.
So run the 16th century lines, and nowadays one can feel only profound relief that this should be so, such is the squalid commercialism that has overtaken the traditional festival. The images one cherishes of the old-fashioned Christmas tend to be illusory: only seldom does it snow, a fat goose is hard to find, even the carol singers rattle collecting tins. But there are compensations.
Perhaps on Christmas Eve a dinner of celebration in the handsome Dorchester Grill, where the best of British cooking was originally resurrected under the guiding hand and spectacular talents of Anton Mosimann and revitalized with style by Udo Schlentrich, formerly of the Regency on Park Avenue is now provided by 34 year old Head Chef Aiden Byrne, that have previously won him Michelin stars, followed by the midnight service at St. Margaret’s Westminster. An evening of sensual and spiritual delight. Indeed, the Dorchester with the opening of Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester is once again one of the best addresses in London due to the Grill and is further displayed in the lavishly decorated, Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, which opened last year and where the menu suprises are justly famous.
An alternative could be an expedition to the country, in itself a pleasure despite the probability of foul weather; for in Lord Tweedsmuir’s words, “It is the English winter that intoxicates more even than the English May, for the noble bones of the land are bare, and you get the essential savour of earth and wood and water.” We are richly blessed with country hotels of charm and quality.
Of them all none is dearer to my heart than Gidleigh Park, set on the edge of Dartmoor above the infant Teign. Paul and Kay Henderson’s Edwardian house allies immense comfort, cuisine of rare finesse, a very remarkable cellar with certainly the strongest California list in England, to a happy atmosphere of genuine kindliness. One feels a great sense of peace and well-being here. Native British hoteliers might ponder the fact that this retreat is the achievement of Americans with no formal training in the field.
Editors Note: The property has been sold to the new proprietors: Andrew and Christina Brownsword, and ably guided by General Manager: Sue Williams and Executive Chef: Michael Caines MBE. It will be operated, as in the past, adhering to the highest standards.
Similar in style is Hambleton Hall, on the edge of Rudland Water, some 100 miles north of London. This is the recent and personal creation of Tim and Stefa Hart, enlightened amateurs also, and their Victorian house provides the solid comfort of the period. In the kitchen, Michelin star Chef, Aaron Patterson whose experience, shows a youthful virtuosity. Sample menus follow:
Our Michelin starred Chef, Aaron Patterson has created Special 3 Course Set Menus which are available every night of the week. Our Menus are changed daily to take account of the seasons and availability.
Selections à la carte:
FIRST COURSES
Assiette of Tomato £14.75
***
Mille Feuille of Seabream £15.00
with Vièrge Sauce
***
Mosaic of Chicken, Foie Gras & Veal Sweetbreads £17.25
with Hazelnuts & Orange
***
Ballotine of Foie Gras £22.25
with Spiced Pineapple & Pistachio Nuts
***
Hambleton’s Mixed Salad £14.75
with Woodland Leaves & Truffle Dressing
***
Pan Fried Langoustines £22.75
with Confit Pork Belly Tortellini & Rhubarb
***
Black Perigord Truffle Risotto £27.75
MAIN COURSES
Loin of Rabbit £33.25
with Carrot Purée & Pea & Mint Risotto
***
Poached Fillet of Seabass £34.00
with Tempura Fried Langoustines, Hazelnuts & Chervil Root Purée
***
Fillet of Hambleton Longhorn Beef £36.00
with Slow Roast Onions & Petit Chou Farci
***
Roast Breast of Goosnargh Duck £35.00
with Caramelised Endive & White Raisins
***
Poached & Roast Pigeon £33.25
with Truffle & Foie Gras Raviolo
***
Roast Loin of Venison £33.75
with Caramelised Endive, Spiced Pineapple & Cocoa Sauce
***
Hare Wellington £33.25
with a Prune & Armagnac Sauce
DESSERTS
(Desserts take up to 25 minutes to prepare)
Assiette of Apple & Blackberry £14.00
***
Passion Fruit Soufflé £15.25
with Passion Fruit & Banana Sorbet
***
Selection of Sorbets £13.00
with Wafer Thin Crisp Fruits
***
Chocolate & Olive Oil Truffle £14.75
with Salted Caramel, Pistachios & Baked Banana
***
Assiette of Hambleton’s Desserts £29.50 (for 2 people)
***
Pear Tart Tatin £14.00
Sunday Lunch Set Menu
£41.50
Tian of Crab
***
with Granny Smith & Ginger Beer Jelly
***
Traditional Roast Beef
with Yorkshire Pudding & Horseradish Hollandaise
***
Rice Pudding Soufflé with Raspberry Sorbet
***
Coffee & Petits Fours
Sunday Lunch À La Carte
Three Courses £46.00
FIRST COURSES
Assiette of Beetroot
***
Terrine of Chicken & Black Pudding with Root Vegetables
***
Hambleton’s Mixed Salad
with Woodland Leaves & Truffle Dressing
MAIN COURSES
Pan Fried Fillet of Seabream with Tartare Mash & Hazelnuts
***
Simply Roast Guinea Fowl
with a Pea & Mint Risotto & a Sherry Vinegar Sauce
***
Roast Loin of Venison
with Caramelised Endive, Spiced Pineapple & Cocoa Sauce
DESSERTS
(Desserts take up to 25 minutes to prepare)
Assiette of Apple & Blackberry
***
Selection of Sorbets with Wafer Thin Crisp Fruits
***
Chocolate Tart with Orange Sorbet
***
Coffee & Petits Fours £4.75
These are Sample Menus – we reserve the right to adjust menu prices – up or down to reflect fluctuations in the cost of ingredients.
All menus are subject to a discretionary service charge of 12.5%.
Nearer to London, only 30 miles south but hard to discover, is Gravetye Manor. Peter Herbert’s splendid Elizabethan house stands in a veritable and historic garden. The walk down to the lake, or rather the stiff 
climb back from it, is calculated to repair any excesses prompted by subtle skills in the kitchen. The public rooms are infinitely relaxing with their paneling and paintings, fine furniture and great log fires. Bedrooms, ancient and modern alike, are comfortable—the former are more fun and reinforce the sense of pleasurable escapism.
Editors Note: Peter Herbert arrived at Gravetye in 1958 and captivated by this property and its setting, he had the revolutionary idea of injecting his own exceptional hotel keeping and restaurant standards into this rural spot. Over 40 years on, Gravetye has lost none of its edge. It has a timeless quality – not trendy, and yet not aged and stuffy. Although only 30 miles from Hyde Park Corner the thousand acre forest in which it is set has resisted development.
In April 2004, General Manager, Andrew Russell and Chef de Cuisine, Mark Raffan, both of whom had worked for the Herbert Family for over seventeen years, purchased the hotel. They both have a great affection and affiliation with this historic house and garden. They are both delighted to be able to continue the philosophy of great country house hospitality and also to maintaining and nurturing this historically important garden.
The Dorchester Park Lane
London W1K 1QA
England
Tel: +44 20 7629 8888
Fax: +44 20 7629 8080
E-mail: info@thedorchester.com
E-mail: reservations@thedorchester.com
($$$)
Gidleigh Park Hotel, Chatford, Devon. Tel: 01647 432367, Email: gidleighpark@gidleigh.co.uk
($$$)
Hambleton Hall, Oakham, Leicestershire. Tel: 0572 56991
Tel: +44 (0) 1572 756 991
Fax: +44 (0) 1572 724 721
Email: info@hambletonhall.com
($$)
Gravetye Manor, West Hoathly, West Sussex. Tel: 0342 810567
telephone: +44 1342 810567
facsimile: +44 1342 810080
email: info@gravetyemanor.co.uk
($$$)
