Jidori-Ya Kensou Yakatori – Bangkok, Thailand

April 4th, 2008

Best Yakatori in Bangkok

10/12-13,
Soi Sukhumvit 26, Sukhumvit Road,
Klongton Klongtoey,
Bangkok 10110
Tel. 02-661-3457
email: kenzobkk@hotmail.com
Open 5:30pm – 1:00am
Specialty: Yakatori (chicken skewers)
Prices: Moderate

Jidori-Ya KensouI can easily say that this is my favorite Japanese restaurant in Bangkok. It has the feel, flavor and lighting that reminds me of Japan. It got off to a rough start, due to the Thai cooking staff’s inexperience with rotating the skewers. They had to get the timing right, as even 15 seconds without rotating the skewer can scorch it and if the charcoal is not hot enough, the skewers will not be evenly browned and will be dry instead of juicy inside. Within a short time the owner trained them “on the job” and now things are working perfectly. That is why never rush in too soon to a newly opened restaurant, give it a month or more to find its pace.

I regularly order Ginko nuts, acclaimed to be good to prevent memory loss, (I can certainly use as much protection against that as I can find) pumpkin salad, an extraordinarily innovative dish that I have not seen anywhere else in the world, lightly cooked Japanese pumpkin, tossed with ground chicken, thinly-sliced Gobo root (burdock) deep fried and sprinkled on top of lettuce dressed with a sweet-sour vinaigrette. Natto, (fermented beans) mixed with fresh avocado and soy sauce and placed on top of a shiso leaf that is seated on top of a piece of fried tofu, which resembles a piece of toast. Another new creation you do not find elsewhere!

Ginko NutsAt this point you can order a variety of chicken skewers, which encompass every part of the chicken. I really enjoy the chicken meat ball (pictured in More Photos below) and also chicken skewer with Shiso leaf.
My daughter, really enjoys the caramel pudding to finish things off.

On the drinks side, they have a large selection of Sho-Chu and Sake that may be ordered by the glass or bottle. The sake by the glass is presented in an attractive pouring bowl and accompanied by sake cups. The beer on draught is very cold, as Japanese prefer it, and Asahi and Heineken are on offer. A good selection of wine is also available.

 

 

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Imperial Herbal Restaurant – Singapore

April 2nd, 2008

#03-08, Lobby G, VivoCity,
take the lift to Lobby G
or escalator from level 2 cinema.
Email: herbal@pacific.net.sg

6337 0491
Hours: Lunch: 11:30am-2:30pm
Dinner: 6:30pm-11pm
Credit cards: all major
wine (Chinese medicinal only)
Prices: Moderate -Expensive

(The following piece was written in 1989 shortly after Imperial Herbal opened in 1988, twenty years ago. It has been condensed and edited for posting. The restaurant has moved from its Metropole Hotel location and relocated to Sentosa.  I thought it might be interesting to include Imperial Herbal in my blog as it is such an unusual restaurant. Now it has a beautiful sea view although, I would have expected that the restaurant deserved more thought put into its decor and demeanor, after all it has a longstanding history to uphold. In any case, they have decided on brash commercialism and good luck to them, I mean that sincerely. I visit Singapore once in awhile and have decided to stay with my memories from the past rather than re-visit this highly touristic place). If anyone disagrees, please let me know via comments or my email on the sidebar by clicking on About; I am very open minded!

It is imperative to have a few words with Mrs. Wang-Lee Tee Eng before looking at the menu. She is the managing director and will put together a course by course menu specifically for you. At first sight, it may look like just another ordinary Chinese restaurant, after tasting the first dish the kitchen’s deft hand will become apparent. The restaurant specializes in serving dishes that combine good taste with herbal medicine. The dishes are designed to cure whatever ails you by balancing your Yin and your Yang. Subtle tastes come through because the over salty flavour usually present in Chinese cuisine is subdued. Soy sauce is used sparingly and MSG not at all. The Chinese medicinal wine served is sweet, but it is worth trying one glass at the end of the meal. Chief Chef Zhang Zhen Jin from Tianjin, China was in charge, at the time, of the medicinal preparations including: Lu Bian (The Whip) this is regarded as the ultimate dish for virility and is made from the reproductive organs of a deer braised and mixed with eight different herbs (it must be ordered in advance). Quick fried scallop with polygonatum and ladybell root served in little baskets is supposed to aid the development of stamina. Simmered pear with fritillary bulb is the restaurant’s special dessert, (served hot). The Chinese cuisine is excellent with exotic dishes such as fruit bat, civet, and deer penis available on request.

Footnote 2 April 2008:
Our party indulged in a few of these unusual items, and since I have resided in Southeast Asia for many years the opportunity to taste many bizarre dishes including dog, most favored by Chinese, have presented themselves. I will not go into further detail regarding this subject, as there are animal-activists lurking around these days that are sensitive to anything of this nature. Suffice it to say, that today, I would not partake in eating any of these jungle species or (raised) dog, especially dog, which has no particular taste on its own, and as a dog lover, I can find no acceptable reason to put “man’s best friend” into the pot.

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Frontera Grill, Topolobampo – Chicago

April 2nd, 2008

445 N. Clark St., Chicago
http://www.rickbayless.com
(312) 661-1434
Closed Sunday & Monday
Quality Mexican
Prices: Moderate

Both restaurants are located in the same building, Frontera Grill (seating 65) is the more casual of the two restaurants and Topolobampo, the higher-end operation, seats only 45. They both share the same entrance and both have outdoor seating. Chef/Owner Rick Bayless is nationally acclaimed for his authentic cooking that represents many of the important gastronomic areas within Mexico. He is relentless in his quest for the finest ingredients and to truly reproduce Mexican cuisine on the highest level. Tamales de Pescado Yucatecan tamales flavored with achiote, filled with fresh catfish, steamed in bananas leaves and served with fresh tomato sauce; Garnachas small homemade tortillas topped with savory pork pibil, pickledonions and habanero salsa; Cazuela de Borrego al Cascabel charcoal-
seared lamb simmered with woodland mushrooms, potatoes and Mexican vegetables; Guacamole fresh and chunky, served with tortilla chips; Tostaditas made-to-order tortilla chips with two salsas; three-chile (cascabel, morita, guajillo) and roasted tomatillo with serrano and cilantro; Puerco en Salsa Roja grilled pork tenderloin in spicy New Mexico red chile sauce with grilled red onions and black beans.

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Global or Bust – British Restaurant Expansion

March 31st, 2008

The other day an English friend of mine mentioned that he read an article outlining plans of certain high-profile British chefs to expand their operations overseas, and I had to grin, as this is definitely a big switch. It will be interesting to see what the French think about it.

Gordon Ramsay, the three-star Michelin chef is one of the most prominent of those who have already opened ventures overseas, and is now in the process of opening another series of restaurants destined for foreign capitals. In his case, the Los Angeles restaurant is under construction and poised to open March 2008 in the London Hotel called, not surprisingly, Gordon Ramsay.

It was not hard to understand that most of these new ventures are targeting the Middle East in cities such as Dubai, Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates; as there are a plethora of investors ready to take the plunge and even more well-heeled customers anxious to make a booking.

Expanding globally is not without its risks, as it is difficult enough to open another branch across the city, not to mention halfway around the globe.

Mr. Ramsay will have his work cut out for him to convince the French that a Brit can succeed in Michelin-starred turf when he opens this spring in Versailles, a short distance from Paris, at the Trianon Palace.

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Farewell, Le Francais – Wheeling Il. (Chicago) (CLOSED)

March 24th, 2008

It was located at:
269 South Milwaukee Avenue, Wheeling, IL
(708) 541-7470
French
Very Expensive

After researching one of the most famous French restaurants in America I discovered that present owner Michael Moran closed the restaurant last summer. The telephone at the restaurant does not respond and it looks as if Le Francais, after one comeback attempt, is now gone forever.

I remember driving up to Wheeling from Chicago en route to dinner at Le Francais, when Jean Banchet was still in the kitchen. I was with my friend and business partner and his then girlfriend who was at the time getting a divorce from her present husband. She was still wearing the wedding ring from her previous marriage, quite a large solitaire diamond, and somehow in a cavalier way I convinced them to throw it away, as a sign of true love. She took it off after much hesitation, and I tossed it out the window into the cornfields. Looking back at it now, it was a damn stupid thing to do, although they were married shortly after and now have three lovely children, the oldest of them is over twenty years old.

Le Francais was an Auberge (country inn) that you would typically expect to find somewhere in the countryside of France; in this case, it was located in the suburb of Wheeling about an hour or more from Chicago. The restaurant comfortably seated 90 patrons on a combination of tables and banquettes. Copper pots and utensils decorated the walls and hung from the ceiling in true Auberge fashion.

Originally, after he took over from Banchet, and on his return with Mr. Moran, Chef Roland Liccioni strived to keep the reputation of the restaurant at the highest standards, which founder Jean Banchet maintained before his retirement many years ago.

A “duet de foie gras,” which paired seared fresh duck foie gras with a thick slice of foie gras torchon.Two preparations of foie gras served over slices of daikon radish served over a bed of diced beets and roasted macadamia nuts; An assortment of game and fowl pates and terrines made with care from traditional recipes; Maine Lobster ravioli garnished with sautéed shrimp accompanied by
a lobster sauce or Vietnamese broth; Portobella mushroom tart served with fava bean and perigueux sauce; Napoleon of Sauteed foie gras with cumin bracelets accompanied by a sauce with slices of salsify; Wild mushroom soup garnished with seafood were just a few of the dishes served in this excellent restaurant.

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Biscotti Restaurant – Bangkok

March 24th, 2008

Biscotti Restaurant
Four Season Hotel
155 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok 10330, Thailand
Credit Cards: All Major
Expensive

BreadWhat better restaurant to celebrate Easter Sunday lunch than the lovely dining room of Biscotti Restaurant located in the Four Seasons Hotel, which in my opinion, is the most tastefully decorated hotel in the city, and if that were not enough they provide excellent service staff to go with it and in the most easily accessible location in this city. It is a duplicate of the Peninsula Hotel in Kowloon, and in fact the Peninsula Group built it but experienced various problems that required them to sell. It was bought by the Regent Hotel Group that was subsequently merged into the Four Seasons Hotels chain. The ceiling in the lobby is magnificent and was painted by an Italian artist who died before finishing it, although I believe, his daughter completed it.
I ordered a magnificent Spring lamb, so fitting for Easter and what an excellent dish Chef Danilo constructed. Succulent lamb set on a bed of semi-bitter greens sprinkled with almonds, pine nuts, white beans and a sauce made from a reduction of lamb and almond essence, which was magical.
Other noteworthy dishes to try are: Cavatelli with porcini mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, and basil and Trofie with tomato couli, Yellow Tail and green beans. More Photos

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La Blanche – Tokyo

March 22nd, 2008

2-3-1, Shibuya-Ku
Tokyo 150
Tel. 03-3499-0824
Credit Cards Accepted
Prices: Expensive

To gain access to this quaint restaurant you must first traverse a steep, sinuous staircase lined with colorful potted flowers.
Chef Tashiro’s signature dishes were served in tandem, steamed vegetables all individually cooked to perfection and then reassembled on the plate with a touch of butter, each individually bursting with their own special flavors. A plate containing fresh bamboo shoots paired with foie gras and sardines were served side by side in two neat stacks. The main course of braised beef cheek, finished with a reduction of red wine and demi-glace, and a perfectly roasted chicken garnished with garlic cloves and yellow potatoes followed. The desserts, a chocolate soufflé with chocolate ice cream and banana parfait, were met with protestations of having eaten enough, but disappeared surprisingly quickly.

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Mikuni Restaurant – Tokyo

March 21st, 2008

Tel. 03-3351-3810, Fax 03-3225-1324
1-18 Wakaba, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Very Expensive

Mikuni1

Mikuni can be difficult to find without good directions, as it is hidden on a small residential street not far from the palatial State Guest House. Look for the sign Hotel Mikuni, incidentally it is not a hotel, it has however, been chosen as a Relais et Château Restaurant and with no wonder as it is one of the best tables in Japan.
A large window in the dining room looks onto trees huddled close to the glass in the extreme foreground. On each table, an elegant, curved translucent plastic vase is placed with a narrow trough only large enough to put about a dozen small stems. In one corner is a huge arrangement made out of branches and decorated with autumn fruits and ivy with variegated leaves. Gold service plates flecked with lavender and blue patterns are impressive; the restaurant’s flatware is of the best quality from Paris and the glasses are engraved with a handsome letter M logo. The dining room has some smart looking modern paintings with a couple of large works taking up most of the space on two walls although, the real art is on the plates.

Vichyssoise

Fish with Red Wine Risotto

Veau Mikuni

For lunch the set menu is priced reasonably and includes 6 courses, coffee, and petit fours. The selection on the day I dined there started with an “amuse bouche” a custard tart and served with a selection of outstanding bread. Wild mushroom soup “Cappuccino Style” was served in a large coffee cup with foaming milk on top of coffee-colored soup. Poached Bass (Itoyori) with fried Makomotake served with a watercress coulis and sweetened vinegar.The next course was Roasted Duck Breton with a Fricassé of Pumpkin (Kabocha) and eggplant with Sauce Poivre Vert. Next Fromage Blanc “Akane-Ringo” the fromage blanc was studded with pieces of apples and ginger and sitting in a pool of fresh, liquefied, apple jelly.

Fruit tart Mikuni

The dessert course “Mikan” caramelized and perfumed with “yuzu” with cocoa ice cream and lemon decorated with a wing made out of bamboo leaf and mint wrapped in a small bundle in the center. After the Chariot of Pastries was rolled up to the table included among the many choices was a fresh berry tart from Hokkaido and Floating Island. Coffee with petit fours followed. For an extra charge, you can sneak in a cheese course preceding the dessert courses.
The house white wine was at the time a Grave Blanc and the red was a St Julien from Bordeaux.
This restaurant is in the same category as the finest three Michelin-starred restaurants in France and the prices reflect this.

Dessert Mikuni

St Julian Mikuni

Vieille Prune

Vieille Prune2

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D’Sens at the Dusit Thani Hotel – Bangkok

March 21st, 2008

Lumpini Park946 Rama IV Road
Bangkok 10500
+66 (0) 2200 9000
Credit Cards: All Major
Prices: Very Expensive

Over the last couple of years I have indulged in many excellent dining experiences sitting on the top floor of the Dusit Thani Hotel overlooking the lake at Lumpini Park, most especially gibier in the autumn season, which have included: wild boar, hare, venison, pheasant, partridge, and grouse.
Today I have just finished a very delicious business lunch consisting of two courses, I was on good behavior and passed on the dessert course, terrine of foie gras and lobster was the first offering, followed by a small tasting portion of the lamb parmentier graciously offered by the management, ending with scallops in a saffron foam 550 baht. There is only one suggestion, in an otherwise constantly improving restaurant, and that is that the wine by the glass and house wines could be improved.Foie Gras and LobsterD’Sens is a branch of the French company owned by the twin brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel who have been awarded two stars in the Michelin guide for their famous restaurant “Le Jardin des Sens” in Montpellier, France. Philip Keller is resident chef at D’ Sens at the Dusit Thani and the front of house is managed by Jean-Yves Francois. More Photos

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Cold Spring Tavern – Santa Barbara, California

March 21st, 2008

5995 Stagecoach Rd
Santa Barbara, CA 93105
(805) 967-0066
Credit Cards: All major
Prices: Moderate

From Santa Barbara take Highway 154 past the summit and turn left on Stagecoach Road.

A rather long drive up the slopes of the Santa Ynez Mountains was broken up by lovely views behind and to the west of Santa Barbara and the ocean beyond, as you approach the summit of the San Marcos pass and you gradually descend one eventually reaches Stagecoach Road and drive down a small winding road until you reach a beautiful tree covered glen where the Cold Spring Tavern is located. Jazz and Blues music is played very, informally outside in front of the bar in the afternoon on weekends and moves inside by the fireplace as night falls.
For more than 100 years the Cold Spring Tavern has been a way station for travelers making the difficult climb over San Marcos Pass. Established in the 1880’s as a stagecoach relay post it has earned a rugged past with cowboys, bandits and buried treasure playing a part in its history. Two bandits once held up the stage when it stopped at the tavern and made off with the Wells Fargo box holding $50,000 in gold coins. A posse caught the bandits, but the bandits carried the box’s whereabouts to the gallows. Roy Rogers once spent seven hours tending bar, and no one recognized him, he seemed like just a simple cowboy from the valley. Things have remained the same since those days and there is still a fire in the fireplace and hearty menu of homemade breads and soups, stews and game.
And the quaint restaurant next door to the bar is charming with fireplaces burning in every room, and you are glad they are there! The menu offers hearty fare that fits into the setting, along with the almost year-round cold temperatures, and offers mainly stew, terrine, and game that is served by a quite knowledgeable staff.
Starters might include: Old Country Game Pate with a salad of white beans, nuts and sherry vinegar, Venison sausage with a medley of sautéed mushrooms and garlic Platter of Appetizers, Pate, Venison sausage and artichoke hearts.
Main courses, for example, might include: Sautéed Medallions of Venison with Roma tomatoes and basil, Grilled Carolina quail, Porcini mushroom Fettuccini, Charbroiled boneless half Chicken, Sautéed New York Steak with black, green, red and yellow peppercorns, sautéed Medallions of Rabbit with wild mushrooms and garlic, grilled filet of New Zealand Venison with wild Lingonberries and red wine.
The wine list is brief but adequate.

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