
Jeremiah Tower was indeed a colorful character in his heyday in San Francisco, he was an infamous tippler who favored prodigious quantities of Champagne; he usually wore red socks, never mind if they clashed with the rest of his outfit; by his many public admissions, including a few catty remarks he made about two-timing Alice Water with her own boyfriend (apparently he would go in any direction when it came to his sexual preferences); during the stormy business relationship between he and his partner Doyle Moon, Tower commented, that Moon was . . . “a fierce Apache in mirrored sunglasses”.
If you were not living in the San Francisco Bay Area in the 80s and early 90s you might not be aware that Jeremiah Tower was the head chef at Chez Panisse and together with Alice Waters were instrumental in spearheading what was to be called “California Cuisine”. He did a stint as chef at Balboa Cafe, he was also the chef and co-owner of Santa Fe Bar and Grill, a 50% partner, the chef, and center of attention at the “super restaurant” Stars.
Below is a link to William Grimes, the New York Times Critic’s brilliant piece written after the release of Tower’s controversial book, “California Dish: What I saw (and cooked) at the American Culinary Revolution” (2003).
Critic’s Notebook; Raising a Glass to Himself; Jeremiah Tower Grills His Peers
Another link to an interesting article, written around the same time period, by Kim Severson, SF Chronicle Staff Writer, follows:
Jeremiah Tower’s memoir of a turning point in American cuisine is hot and salty, sweet and sour
Recently J.T. has been reported living between Italy and Mexico, scuba diving and resurrecting old colonial houses.
Jeremiah Tower with wine author, Robert Lawrence Balzer (image credit: Alan Berliner for SF Chronicle)
(Emi Kagawa’s images © 2010 restaurantdiningcritiques.com)
(Emi Kagawa’s images © 2010 restaurantdiningcritiques.com)
Napalese vegetable curry and pictured behind, fresh organic watermelon juice (Emi Kagawa’s images © 2010 restaurantdiningcritiques.com)
(Emi Kagawa’s images © 2010 restaurantdiningcritiques.com)
Above: Moma – Umberto Cesari, Momo Rosso (80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot)
Above: Villa Girardi – Amarone
Above: Fattoria Mantellassi – Le Sentinelle, Morrellino di Scansano, Riserva (85% Sangiovese, 15% Alicante)
Above: Rovereto – Gavi, Michele Chiarlo
Above: Cipressi Della Court – Barbera d’Asti, Michele Chiarlo
Above: Garofoli – Farnio – Rosso, Piceno Doc
Culinary Tidbits . . . Heston Blumenthal, of The Fat Duck, Bray, Berkshire, England
Harold’s Diner, Hilton Head, South Carolina
Harold’s Diner is an exception to all of this. Harold’s does not have a website. They do not advertise. They seat only 21 people . . . 13 counter stools, and four small window tables for two. The only Internet notes you will find about them (other than rave reviews by regular diners) is a small notation that they have the “Best burger on the island”. Their motto is “Eat here or we both starve”. It is a true diner in the best tradition of “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” (of FoodTV Network fame). Most people find out about Harold’s by word of mouth, or seeing it as they cruise down the highway, and thinking “That would be a cool place to eat”! That’s how I discovered it. The food is good, the ambiance friendly and fun, and the prices (cash only) are very reasonable. Incidentally, despite a recent TripAdvisor review stating that the reviewer was served by Harold himself, the fact is, that Harold died many years ago!
Harold’s at breakfast . . . the hats (hanging) are $15 as are the t-shirts, when they are in stock.
Want a free t-shirt? Just finish two Big “H” Burgers (one pound each) and two orders of fries!
Tickets waiting for the grill cook
Big “H” Breakfast . . . two eggs over easy with bacon, sausage, home fries and hot cakes
Three egg omelette with swiss and cheddar cheese, ham, bacon, jalapenos and home fries with rye toast
Notice the “Sorry, We’re Open” sign!

Above: deli cases with the kitchen just behind
One of the busy dining rooms
Dining room in the rear of the building
Charcuterie platter, you can make your own or choose the standard platter.
This pizza was labeled Neapolitan although it tasted more similar to a Niçoise version
Josh Ozersky is at fighting weight and prepared to continue to elevate his uric acid level as a gladiator in defense of hamburgers and certain other comfort foods. He is at the other end of the food spectrum from Raymond Sokolov, the recently dismissed WSJ restaurant critic, and this, I suppose is a compelling enough reason for Time Magazine to let him explain to mainstream diners, the demise of the “old guard” restaurant critics, or maybe he was added for counter-balance; in either case, it does seem to be a curious choice. If you have not read it, the link follows: 
Complimentary Amuse . . . Crostini, Burrata, Basil & Currants
Burricotta w/Braised Artichokes, Pine Nuts, Currants & Mint Pesto
Burrata w/Bacon, Marinated Escarole & Caramelized Shallots
Gnocchi w/Chanterelles, Shallots & Greens (The Gnocchi were only slightly smaller than golf ball size)
Maltagliali w/ Wild Boar Ragu
This was like a Molten Chocolate Cake with homemade honey ice cream, sauce and candied almonds
They called this a “Cornet” with a delicious creamy filling, ice cream, nuts and star shaped candied fruits
Available to Thai Residents only from 15 May until 31 May 2010, between 10 am to 3 pm – For reservations & information please contact +66 (2) 659 9000 ext. 7440 or email: mobk-spa@mohg.com
Mo – Chica, Peruvian Restaurant with a definite Japanese Influence
Mo – Chica Napkin and Tasting Menu 02/25/10
Soup, Quinoa, Jerusalem Artichokes
Causa, Santa Barbara Sardines, Escabeche Sauce
Ceviche, Seared Albacore, Gooseberries Aquaimanto Marmalade, Leche de Tigre
Cau-Cau de Mariscos, Confit Potato & Garlic, Mix seafood, Aji Amarillo Mint Sauce
Corn Nuts, Peruvian Style
Ceviche de Pato, Braised Duck Leg, Ceviche Orange Sauce
Chocolate Nikki, Guava moose Chocolate Tempura, Pistachio Ice Cream